BUILDING YOUR DRESS SHIRT COLLECTION

Collar

There are four basic types collar types: straight, spread, tab and button down. Straight collars are generally conservative and available in traditional (stitched a ¼" from edge of collar) and European (edge-stitched) versions. This collar style is a traditional favorite, complements almost any facial structure and is a safe choice with any basic dress shirt.

Dress Shirt Collar Choices The basic rule is not to wear a collar that is the same shape as your face. Men with long, narrow faces should avoid long pointed collars. Men with a round face should avoid spread collars. Below are collar suggestions that are generally accepted by the fashion industry. However, keep in mind that many variations exist and these rules do not apply to every man and every situation. The key is to trust your judgment and wear what makes you feel confident!

Spread collars are cut at a sharper angle, leaving more fabric showing at the top of the shirt placket. The Windsor spread collar has a straight edge, while the varsity spread is cut with a slight arc. Spread collars are available in most basic dress shirts, but are particularly appropriate in contrasting collar and cuff dress shirts (a colored or patterned shirt with a white collar and cuff) because of their dressier nature.

Tab collars resemble straight collars in cut, but the two sides of the collar are held together by two small pieces of fabric, each with one side of a snap tab or a button. When snapped, it allows the points of the collar to lie flat on the body of the shirt, providing a very neat and precise look.

The button-down collar is perhaps the most popular and versatile collar style available. Less formal than other collar styles, it is still appropriate for a wide variety of business and business casual settings. A button-down collar dress shirt can easily be worn with or without a necktie.

Selecting a collar style is largely a matter of personal taste. There are a few things, however, to consider. Your collar should counterbalance your facial structure. If you are tall and lean with a thin face, a straight collar will further accentuate those features. To balance out these physical features, a spread collar would be the optimal choice. Conversely, a spread collar will accentuate a round face, while a straight collar provides more balance.

Cuff

While the majority of men favor button (barrel) cuffs, French cuffs add refinement to any dress shirt and allow a man to express his individuality through the selection of cufflinks.

Fabrics

Fabrics come in a variety of plys and weavings. These plys and weavings greatly affect price and hand (the way the fabric feels to the touch).