A DENIM GLOSSARY

Bellbottoms - Start to flare at the knee, resulting in a 22+ inch leg opening.

Bootcut - Slim through the legs, with a slight flare at the ankle to accommodate a boot (about a 16-18 inch opening).

Crosshatch - An effect in the denim weave created by using uneven yarn in the weft direction combined with uneven yarns in the warp direction.

Dirty denim - Filler yarns are brown instead of natural which is woven with the indigo which gives the denim a "dirty" appearance although some dirty denim is produced by a tanin wash. Denim is unique because it is woven with two yarn colors: the indigo yarn and the "filler" yarn, which is usually undyed. Turn your jeans inside out and see the white inside for yourself!

Flares - Slim through the legs, flaring right above the ankle -- to about an 21+ inch opening.

Indigo - Once harvested from plants, most indigo is now synthesized from chemicals. It is used to dye various cellulose based fibers. Pure indigo can produce deep, brilliant blues that cannot be duplicated with any other dye.

Low-rise - Anywhere from an inch or so below the belly button to obscenely low.

Open-End Denim - The most popular type of denim that results in a consistent yarn thickness.

Peg legs - Extremely narrow leg opening such as was common in the 1980s.

Ring Spun Denim - The original denim fabric, which is known for its characteristic slubs.

Sandblasting - A laundry process in which unwashed jeans are sprayed with sand or chemicals to give the jeans a worn appearance.

Sandwash - A garment washing technique in which sand, or some other abrasive substance, is used in the wash bath giving a faded appearance and a soft hand.

Slim cut - Regardless of the leg or waistband, it gives a sleek, slim look.

Stonewashed - Most jeans today are stonewashed, but not in pumice stones like the original method. Now enzymes, sand, ceramic balls and other methods give jeans their worn look.

Twill - The diagonal lines formed by the weave.

Twill, Left hand - A diagonally running weave resulting in a softer, loftier feel.

Twill, Right hand - The use of uniform yarns giving a more rugged weave.

Waist Overalls - The original name of jeans until 1960 when the Levi Strauss Co. changed it to its popular name of "jeans."

Vintage look - Vintage jeans show wear patterns. Denim designers now incorporate worn marks, baked in creases, patches on backside, damage and light washes into the fabric to mimic a vintage jeans.

Whiskers - worn, lighter marks radiating out from the crotch.